Motor Bike Rental

Renting a car or motorbike can open up Bali for exploration – and can also leave you counting the minutes until you return it; there can be harrowing driving conditions on the islands at certain times and south Bali traffic is often awful. But it gives you the freedom to explore myriad back roads and lets you set your own schedule.

Most people don't rent a car for their entire visit but rather get one for a few days of meandering.

Fuel

Bensin (petrol) is sold by the government-owned Pertamina company, and costs a cheap (it's subsidised) 8000Rp per litre. Bali has scads of petrol stations. On Lombok there are stations in major towns. Motorbike fuel is often sold from roadside stands out of Absolut vodka bottles.

Hire

Very few agencies in Bali will allow you to take their rental cars or motorcycles to Lombok.

Motorcycles

Motorbikes are a popular way of getting around – locals ride pillion almost from birth. A family of five all riding cheerfully along on one motorbike is called a Bali minivan.

Rentals cost 50,000Rp a day, less by the week. This should include minimal insurance for the motorcycle but not for any other person or property. Some have racks for surfboards.

Think carefully before renting a motorbike. It is dangerous and every year visitors go home with lasting damage – this is no place to learn to ride. Helmet use is mandatory.

Check to see what your own vehicle, health and travel insurance covers, especially if you are renting a motorbike.

Road Rules

Visiting drivers commonly complain about crazy Balinese drivers, but often it's because the visitors don't understand the local conventions of road use. For instance, the constant use of horns doesn't mean 'Get the @£*&% out of my way!'; rather, it is a very Balinese way of saying 'Hi, I'm here.'

• Watch your front – it's your responsibility to avoid anything that gets in front of your vehicle. In effect, a car, motorcycle or anything else pulling out in front of you has right of way.
• Often drivers won't even look to see what's coming when they turn left at a junction – they listen for the horn.
• Use your horn to warn anything in front that you're there, especially if you're about to overtake.
• Drive on the left side of the road.

Traffic Police

Some police will stop drivers on very slender pretexts. If a cop sees your front wheel half an inch over the faded line at a stop sign, if the chin-strap of your helmet isn't fastened, or if you don't observe one of the ever-changing and poorly signposted one-way traffic restrictions, you may be waved down.

The cop will ask to see your licence and the vehicle's registration papers, and they'll also tell you what a serious offence you've committed. Stay cool and don't argue. Don't offer a bribe.

Hiring a Vehicle & Driver

An excellent way to travel anywhere around Bali is by hired vehicle, allowing you to leave the driving and inherent frustrations to others. If you're part of a group, it can make sound economic sense as well. This is also possible on Lombok but less common.

It's easy to arrange a charter: just listen for one of the frequent offers of 'transport?' in the streets around the tourist centres. Approach a driver yourself or ask at your hotel, which is often a good method, because it increases accountability. Also consider the following:

• Although great drivers are everywhere, it helps to talk with a few.
• Get recommendations from other travellers.
• You should like the driver and their English should be sufficient for you to communicate your wishes.
• Agree on a route beforehand.
• Make it clear if you want to avoid tourist-trap restaurants and shops (smart drivers understand that tips depend on following your wishes).
• Many drivers find ways to make your day delightful in unexpected ways. Tip accordingly.